He rides the waves upon a swell;
His inner fear he seeks to quell.
This man on wave is riding high
Beneath a glorious azure sky.
Gulls wheel and dive above his head.
Below his feet, the ocean bed
Awaits poor souls the cruel sea takes,
Not caring if they’ve made mistakes.
No time to gasp or catch your breath
When you decide to dice with death.
But this brave man has inner strength
And surfs the swell for its full length.
Then down he glides and swiftly turns.
Assurance in his brain now burns!
He’ll beat the elements with ease
And master these presumptuous seas!
As man and board both turn and twist,
All thoughts of fear are soon dismissed.
He demonstrates his skill and speed,
Appeasing a devouring need.
With fervour filling heart and soul,
His heart’s set on that final goal.
A six foot wave he rides with grace,
Sea water spraying on his face.
What drives we humans to risk all
When inner urges loudly call?
It’s mental power, vigour and speed:
That feeling that we must succeed;
It’s combatting a fearful force -
And keeping steadfast on one’s course.
Ah yes, here is another thought:
It’s all done in the name of “sport”.
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